Bistrot Bisou follows on from Mangan’s casual French-Japanese-inspired newcomer Luc-San at Hotel Indigo Sydney Potts Point.

Since last year, Melbourne has already welcomed: glitzy Atria at the Ritz-Carlton Melbourne, driven by culinary adviser Mark Best and executive chef Michael Greenlaw (a Good Food Guide hat recipient); Maestro by celebrity chef Adrian Richardson in the multimillion-dollar Holiday Inn and Suites Geelong development; and Prince Dining Room in St Kilda’s The Prince hotel, steered by trailblazing Sydney chef Mitch Orr (Kiln), along with head chef Ben Parkinson (Pipis Kiosk).

Hotel restaurants in Sydney are likewise fizzing with culinary credentials. Pier One’s new casual offering Pier Dining, helmed by French-born chef Dimitri Damman, is doing good things with seafood; in a homage to its early predecessor, Oyster Bar and Crab Cooker, the Sydney rock oyster gets star treatment, served freshly shucked or charred with smoked Wagyu fat and coconut vinegar.

Public Hospitality Group’s new Oxford House listening bar, Busby’s, is an all-stars operation with menus devised by chef Clayton Wells (who has since stepped back from his role as group culinary director), and with talent from P&V and Maybe Sammy.

This year has already seen the launch of Sydney Common at Sheraton Grand, Bar Lettera at Citadines Walker North Sydney, Lumiere on Thirty Five at Sofitel Darling Harbour, and Pont Dining Room at Intercontinental Sydney.

Barangaroo’s Crown Sydney boasts four hatted restaurants alone, setting a new bar for hotel dining precincts. It’s star players, Oncore by Clare Smyth and Yoshii’s Omakase, still rank among the most sought-after bookings in town; meanwhile, on the ground floor acclaimed chef Alessandro Pavoni is plating up theatrics at one-hatted a’Mare, with a new “Italian Job” banquet concept, in which every course is prepared or finished tableside.

On the horizon, House Made Hospitality, which operates Lana and Promenade Bondi, has revealed plans for four new venues within the iconic Sofitel Sydney Wentworth, part of a $60 million revitalisation, while hospitality veterans Ross and Sunny Lusted (Woodcut, The Bridge Room) are on track to launch two Iberian inspired venues at the soon-to-open Melbourne Place boutique hotel in September 2024.

With culinary tourism contributing over $10 billion to the economy in 2021, and Tourism Australia data revealing “great food, wine, and local cuisine” to be a major influencing factor in holiday planning (more so than natural environments), don’t expect the hotel dining boom to go away any time soon.

See bistrotbisou.com.au